It's been difficult, these last few months, reading the webjournals of friends who are doing this "fifty new recipes in 2006" thing. Janet and Julia and Peter are making posole and moroccan spaghetti squash and chocolate meringues and arugula pesto and bourbon bread pudding, and Matt and I? We're kind of calling it an enormous success if we manage to do a chicken spice-rub and saute some spinach. (Strange as it may seem, one of our cooking standbys is the spicy barbecue rub from Thisbe Nissen's The Ex-Boyfriend Cookbook. That book is a tiny gem of engaging anecdotes and attractive graphic design. I've only ever cooked three or four things out of it, and it doesn't look like something you'd expect to be a functional cookbook, but it is! The spice rub is fantastic, but I've learned to use about half the paprika and chile powder it suggests. Mix the spices, coat the chicken, toss it on the Foreman grill, open a bag of spinach and saute that with a little sliced garlic, poof, complete dinner in ten or fifteen minutes. I resisted the pre-washed pre-cut bagged spinach for a while, but got over it. It's generally good quality, it's not that much more expensive, and it doesn't have tiny bits of grit in it like the fresh spinach inevitably does no matter how much I wash it.)
Anyway. I've been so buried in the dissertation, and Matt's got a lot of stuff going on, and while we've been managing to cook, we've been just rotating through our relatively small repertoire of familiar recipes. We branch out occasionally. At some point last week I hit a snag in the writing process, just could not figure out how to work through a particular tangle in my argument, so I dug up my old recipe for beef stew and spent an hour or so chopping onions and browning meat and dicing carrots, and by the time I hit the "cook over low heat for 4-5 hours" stage I had untangled what I needed to, so that was perfect. Last month, on one of our "oh, god, I have no idea what to cook, can't we just make pasta or something?" nights, we had the brilliant idea of sauteeing some shrimp with garlic and tossing that into the pasta sauce, thus transforming the fallback pasta-cooking night into a tasty shrimp linguini night. But that's really about as ambitious as we've been able to manage.
Where I'm going with this: today is Matt's birthday (yay!) and we decided to do a special dinner thing last night, to celebrate. (I'd been looking forward to this all week, actually. You wouldn't think it would feel so special to cook a nice dinner with someone I see every day, but I'm a sucker for a special event.) It was a masterpiece of logistical manuevering, because we have a teeny-tiny kitchen, but it came off perfectly.
1) Pepper-crusted filet mignon. (Recipe from a recent Cook's Illustrated.) Take whole black peppercorns, crack them (by rolling over them with the underside of a bowl or skillet), simmer them in olive oil for about seven minutes. Let that cool to room temperature, add kosher salt, stir to mix. Coat two filets in this mixture, wrap them in plastic wrap, let sit at room temperature for an hour. Then heat some more olive oil in a skillet, brown the filets (three or four minutes on each side), transfer them to a heated baking sheet and cook in a pre-heated oven for another four minutes. Take them out of the oven, let them sit for about five minutes (on a wire cooling rack, covered loosely with aluminum foil).
2) Broccoli. Take a couple of heads of broccoli, cut them up into smallish pieces. Heat some olive oil in a wok, toss in a whole bunch of sliced garlic, cook the garlic until it's a little sizzly but not quite browning yet. Throw in the broccoli, toss it thoroughly in the garlic and oil, keep cooking (stirring pretty near constantly) until it's bright green and you don't see any obviously uncooked bits. Pour in a little bit of chicken broth, second-guess yourself, pour in a little bit more. Cover the wok and let it all cook for a while longer, stirring occasionally, until it looks done. (A more objective test, I guess, is "until you can stick a fork into the broccoli stem pieces without too much effort." But we cook broccoli like this all the time, it's a recipe derived in equal parts from my mother and Mark Bittman, and by now I can pretty much just eyeball it.) Once you've got the broccoli on your plate, you may want to add a little salt and a little lemon juice.
3) Biscuits. And here I'm going to just come out and say that I am in no way ashamed of the fact that we use those Pillsbury "Perfect Portions" biscuits. I've made biscuits from scratch, I've made biscuits from Bisquick, and I actually prefer the Pillsbury. So there.
The food turned out perfect, absolutely perfect. We had flowers on the table, this cheerful spring bouquet with crocuses and alstroemeria and a big easter lily, and phenomenal wine (Villa Mt Eden Grand Reserve Zinfandel). And it's nice to know that even in the middle of this mad impending-graduation rush, I haven't forgotten how to do things like cook a nice dinner or set an attractive table.
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